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Thom Browne, ever the grasp showman of American trend, closed out New York Fashion Week on a blustery day with his personal wintry panorama, blanketing the ground with pretend snow and presenting his newest creative designs to the phrases of Edgar Allan Poe’s chilling “The Raven.”
With celebrities like Janet Jackson and Queen Latifah within the entrance row Wednesday night at a theater area on the far west facet of Manhattan, Browne did what he does greatest, displaying feats of intricate tailoring and taking his time to weave a story. His soundtrack narrator was Carrie Coon, star of “The Gilded Age,” who recited Poe’s bleak story of a lover mourning his misplaced love, Lenore, when he’s visited by the black, thick-necked chook who always repeats, “Nevermore! Nevermore!”
Nobody in trend is a greater storyteller than Browne, now chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who through the years has positioned his reveals in mock cathedrals, magical gardens, even on faraway planets. As at all times, Browne’s fashions didn’t strut a runway however as a substitute have been gamers in his fantasy, strolling intentionally and serenely round a wintry wasteland crammed with snow and naked bushes.
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As the viewers filed in, a type of “trees,” a person on stilts in an enormous puffer coat, or robe, stood silently. Once the drama started, 4 younger youngsters emerged from that coat — as if he have been a darker model of Mother Ginger from “The Nutcracker” — finally sitting within the snow because the poem started.
“While I nodded, nearly napping, suddenly there came a tapping,” Poe’s phrases went, “as of some one gently rapping, rapping at my chamber door.” The procession started. Of practically 50 appears to be like, the whole lot was in black-and-white — typical of Browne’s shade self-discipline — with just a little gold on the finish.
The Poe theme was everpresent. In the primary look, an imposing black headpiece made it look like a raven was perched on the mannequin’s head. In the second, black birds emblazoned a white coat that itself coated a black jacket and skirt.
It was a vastly creative array of coats and jackets and skirts and trousers — and generally no trousers in any respect. There have been solids and checks and prints. Some ensembles have been totally fashioned and others had a deconstructed really feel that could be a longtime design theme of Browne’s. Each ensemble was a piece of layered and complex tailoring, the hallmark of a designer who just lately was invited to indicate high fashion in Paris.
Some silhouettes have been lengthy and glossy, others boxy or cinched tightly on the waist. Bags included numerous variations of the Hector — a dog-shaped bag in honor of Browne’s pet of the identical identify. The luggage have been coated, mentioned the label, by a detachable layer of waterproof vinyl, additionally used on the footwear.
For whimsy, the phrase “Nevermore” from the poem was emblazoned on the backs of some jackets. And there was a uncommon trace of pores and skin for the label — a sheer black shirt coated with roses and a sheer skirt. As for the hair, it was hair-raising — actually. Many fashions wore two braids that defied gravity, reaching upward towards the sky.
“The Raven” hardly ends on a cheery notice. Indeed, Coon ended it with horrifying screams of “Nevermore!” But for Browne and his viewers it was Valentine’s Day. And so, as he is accomplished earlier than, Browne turned his post-show bow right into a romantic gesture, carrying an enormous crimson heart-shaped field, presumably of sweets, to longtime associate Andrew Bolton, star curator on the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
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The crowd appeared to launch right into a collective “Aww.” Then, as individuals ready to file out into the freezing night time, many first stopped to tromp on the pretend snow and greet the tall human tree — who obliged by shaking his branches.
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