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Shortly after crossing the beginning line of my 12km race with a cheery crowd of fellow runners, I’m met with eerie blackened lava fields, pitted with craters. The excited chatter from our pre-race Zumba warmup rapidly dies down as we start to deal with rising warmth, a crosswind and – hardest of all – volcanic ash underfoot. The black, dusty gravel crunches and spills into my trainers with every step.
When I’d heard about a ‘wine run’ that was making a comeback after the pandemic, I used to be fast to enroll. I had visions of trotting by way of row upon row of inexperienced vines, stopping for the occasional glass of the good stuff whereas surveying lush environment within the sunshine.
But this was the Lanzarote Wine Run, going down on the lunar-like panorama of the Spanish island. The occasion consists of a 12km or 23km route by way of the wine-growing area of La Geria (you’ll be able to run, or stroll the shorter path), culminating with a wine competition on the end line.
Read extra: Spanish islands with solar and volcanic peaks that it’s best to make your subsequent vacation destination
The irony is that this ash often known as ‘picón’, which is making the run a lot tougher, is exactly what makes Lanzarote’s wine so good. The island was devastated by volcanic eruptions within the 1730s, and huge areas are nonetheless buried beneath lava. But islanders confirmed resourcefulness within the face of adversity and found that the island’s new volcanic composition allowed grapevines to outlive, and even flourish.
To be taught extra about wine-making on the island, a couple of days earlier than the run I joined a winery stroll and tapas tour with Wine Tours Lanzarote. Our group of 4 was steered by way of three totally different wineries by Anita Sanz Sanchez, who moved to Lanzarote from Madrid in 2006 after falling in love with the island whereas on vacation.
Anita revealed her ardour for the island’s wines as we explored Bodegas Rubicón, a winery that I’d quickly be running by way of. Flanked by the flaming-red hills of Timanfaya National Park – the volcanoes whose violent eruptions gave the island its character – the bodegas’ darkish, sweeping terrain is punctuated by dug-out hollows, every with a vine at its coronary heart.
Anita defined how creating these ‘hoyos’ is extra labour-intensive and much less productive than conventional rows, however the conical form is ingenious, each shielding the vines from wind and amassing valuable moisture, funnelling it to the plant’s roots. The finish product, a dry white comprised of Malvasia Volcanica grapes, tastes delightfully minerally and crisp on the palate. Paired with conventional Canarian potatoes (boiled and salty) and spicy purple mojo sauce on a terrace overlooking the winery, it’s a serene solution to digest the panorama.
Lanzarote’s wine scene is rising, with 32 lively wineries on the island. Just 80 miles off the coast of Africa, its semi-desert local weather might not appear ripe for wine manufacturing, however its volcanic soil doesn’t enable pests to stay – just like the dreaded phylloxera that worn out many Nineteenth-century European wineries. The result’s vines which can be over 150 years outdated, yielding high-quality vintages. Though the vines are outdated, the wine produced is younger, in some circumstances taking simply three months from grape-picking to bottling, with a crisp and recent end.
The chilled-out vibe of my wine tour extends to my lodging. From Arrecife airport, as an alternative of travelling south to essentially the most in style seashore resorts, similar to Playa Blanca and Puerto del Carmen, I head north in direction of the extra rugged shoreline with its lesser-known fishing villages, similar to Arrieta. With volcanic mountains on one aspect and the ocean on the opposite, Finca de Arrieta is an off-grid eco-village comprising 21 yurts, villas, and cottages powered by the most important inexperienced vitality system within the Canaries. The Finca, run by Lanzarote Retreats, sources round 90 per cent of its vitality from photo voltaic, with the remaining from wind vitality and gasoline.
It’s additionally a nice place to remain for the Wine Run. Lanzarote Retreats has a four-night package deal over the run weekend, together with day by day breakfast, transfers to and from the run and paella one night (€650pp/£542).
Back on the Wine Run, I’m glad for the cooling impact of the commerce wind. From our place to begin exterior Finca Testeina, a whitewashed farmhouse hemmed in by palms, we set off throughout the nation, passing putting and uncommon vineyards; as an alternative of neat traces of vines like these of southern France, there’s black soil scattered with hollows, a flash of inexperienced on the centre of every. Running by way of this inland belt, the terrain undulates in opposition to a backdrop of volcanic peaks.
Rising from this darkish panorama, the white facade of Bodega La Geria is a welcome sight after an uphill part. Established on the finish of the Nineteenth century, it was the primary vineyard on the island to supply guided visits – and it’s additionally one in every of a handful of help stations on the race. Runners and walkers pause to refuel on the water – or wine – inspired again onto the path by upbeat music and cheers from the crew.
With solely a couple of kilometres to go, my legs are feeling the results of the additional effort wanted to traverse the thick picón. But the tip is sort of in sight. A person enjoying a saxophone from the sidelines lifts my spirits, high-fiving me as I cross. Just a few extra minutes, then I’m down in Uga, the one village we’ve seen, again on the tarmac, and, with one final push, throughout the end line.
With a medal round my neck, I be part of different finishers in wolfing thick slabs of refreshing melon, the juice trickling down our chins. Then, I’m straight to the competition tent with my wine vouchers. I select a dry white from El Grifo, the oldest vineyard within the Canaries (1775). It’s mild and surprisingly straightforward to drink. It will not be your typical restoration drink, however after a morning running by way of Lanzarote’s vineyards, it’s a wealthy reward.
How to get there
EasyJet, Ryanair, Tui and Jet2 fly direct to Lanzarote (Arrecife Airport) from the UK, with a flight time of round 4 hours.
Where to remain
The Eco Cabin at Finca de Arrieta sleeps as much as 4 visitors in two bedrooms, plus a double couch mattress and journey cot. Airport transfers may be organized on request as can using Toyota hybrid rent vehicles.
A Wine, Vineyard Walk & Tapas Tour prices €99 (or with out tapas for €75); winetourslanzarote.com
For extra details about the Lanzarote Wine Run, see lanzarotewinerun.com
Read extra: The finest seashores in Lanzarote
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