Cheltenham Festival Style Day: The complicated unwritten rules for Wednesday at the races

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Do ladies should put on a fascinator? Do males want to decorate like they’re attending a capturing get together hosted by Julian Fellowes? Is tweed important? And what if it chucks it down? Think of Cheltenham races, which begins at the moment (12 March), and also you’ll in all probability image, nicely, all of the above: a sea of countrified herringbones and checks, fur collars and extra fedoras than a pick-up artist conference, in all probability adorned with pheasant feathers.

But whereas different equestrian occasions have at all times tended to implement strict, typically particular gown codes, Cheltenham has by no means truly had an official coverage on race day apparel. The expectation that ticket holders would gown neatly was simply one among the unwritten rules which can be so frequent in posh-skewing occasions, particularly these involving horses. Last yr, although, issues loosened up a bit. The Jockey Club (that’s the organisation that owns 15 of Britain’s most well-known racecourses – the likes of Aintree, Epsom, Sandown and Cheltenham, however not Ascot, the proud enforcer of British horse racing’s most Byzantine gown code) scrapped edicts about gown throughout all of its venues. The solely exception, they mentioned, can be “offensive fancy dress, offensive clothing of any kind and replica sports shirts”.

This transfer was a part of an try and overhaul racing’s popularity, so as to make it really feel extra “accessible and inclusive”. According to Jockey Club chief government Nevin Truesdale, “enforcing a dress code seems rather outdated in the 21st century in the eyes of many of our racegoers”. Now, attendees at all of the organisation’s occasions are merely inspired to “dress as you feel most comfortable and confident” – which is all very nicely and good, however definitely leaves a number of room for manoeuvre. It’s a bit like the sartorial equal of when your mum tells you she “doesn’t really need anything” for her birthday: imprecise and filled with potential pitfalls. And, we should always word, not everyone seems to be thrilled by this slight shake-up. “It’s a dreadful idea because it encourages mediocrity,” milliner Jonny Beardsall advised The Times forward of final yr’s races.

Reports from the 2023 occasion did select just a few extra pairs of denims and trainers and even – brace yourselves – tracksuits than we would have anticipated in earlier years. But there’s no actual trigger for Cheltenham diehards to be wringing their elegantly gloved arms. “I’m yet to notice much difference in the outfits that guests are choosing to wear,” says private stylist Lindsay Edwards. “It seems that the vast majority of people remain keen to ‘dress up for the races.’” This yr, Ladies’ Day has been rebranded as “Style Wednesday”, and is all about sluggish style, celebrating classic, borrowed objects and heirloom items (rental platforms is perhaps your new finest good friend relating to nailing this specific theme).

So methods to go about planning what to put on? Every Cheltenham outfit ought to begin with a look at the climate forecast, so you recognize what you’re coping with. “Fabric wise, wool, tweed and bouclé work particularly well in poor weather conditions,” Edwards advises, “as does bonded cotton that has water-repelling qualities”. She additionally advises packing a clear umbrella (it’s what Queen Elizabeth used to do, permitting her to see and be seen). If it’s chilly, a jumpsuit is perhaps possibility, suggests Susie Hasler, private stylist at Styled by Susie, as a result of “you could even get away with tights underneath if you really feel the cold”. Or, in case you’re a bit extra daring, “you could even look at a co-ord trouser suit in a warm fabric such as velvet”, she says. Think Claudia Winkleman striding round a Scottish fortress in The Traitors.

You additionally want to consider the general impact. If you’re going to be standing round exterior all day, “it’s likely that your outfit won’t be fully seen in its entirety”, Hasler cautions, “so rather than chuck on a last minute rain jacket, look for something warm and glamorous.” Otherwise your general vibe would possibly find yourself extra soccer supervisor grimacing from the dugout than stylish racegoer. She advises opting for longer types in fleecy teddy, fake fur or good felt. And as for sneakers? “Be mindful that if you’re wearing heels that are uncomfortable at the beginning of the day, by the end of the races, you’ll want to kick them off,” Masler correctly notes. Stilettos are a foul concept, except you fancy trailing behind your pals as you try to drag your spindly heels out of the mud each few steps. “If you go for a heel, ensure it has a sturdy block heel so you don’t sink into the grass,” advises Louise Duncum, private stylist at Weiz Styles. “A platform sole is also a great option to give height but more comfort on your foot.”

When it involves choosing a color, Lindsay Edwards reckons that for males, “a well-cut suit in country colours such as olive green or brown looks great, as well as checkered or herringbone tweed”. And for ladies racegoers in search of one thing equally understated, she advises making an attempt “navy, plum or olive green. If you’re unsure what colours suit you, try teal or a Cadbury’s purple, which work for everyone, whatever their colouring”. White or cream, she says, in all probability aren’t the most suitable option, as they “will show up any unavoidable splashes of mud throughout the day”. It’s early spring in Gloucestershire, in spite of everything, not summer time on the Riviera.

Essentially, you don’t have to intention for full-on lord or girl of the manor cosplay, or go for one thing trend-led. “The most stylish attendees on the day will be those who opt for timeless classics mixed with a few on-trend elements to achieve a balanced and sophisticated look,” says Alison Lowe, style marketing consultant and course chief in MBA Fashion Entrepreneurship at the University of East London. And no, you actually don’t have to put on a fascinator if that’s your individual private type of sartorial hell (simply me?)

“Cheltenham is not the occasion for wildly elaborate headwear,” Lowe provides. “Save those overly extravagant headpieces for Ascot.” Noted.