Bad Gastein is a ski spot full of wonders beyond the slopes

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As romantic views go – swirling steam over heat effervescent water, the solar setting over stately Habsburg villas and snow-capped mountains – it was onerous to beat. Rooftop swimming pools usually promise greater than they ship, however the Grand Hotel Straubinger’s out of doors infinity pool in the centre of Bad Gastein didn’t disappoint. It even threw in views of the Hotel de l’Europe, mentioned to be the inspiration for Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel. Just under was Bad Gastein’s thundering waterfall, feeding some of the thermal springs that drew the Nineteenth-century Habsburgs to this place of therapeutic waters – simply because it drew me and my knackered knee.

Why come to a ski resort in case you’re nonetheless recovering from a ski damage that’s preserving you away from these much-missed pistes? Probably as a result of hurtling down a mountain on a plank or two isn’t the solely purpose to be in the Austrian Alps, compelling purpose although it is. And Bad Gastein, solely 80 minutes south of Salzburg airport, has a life away from the slopes, which didn’t want two absolutely match legs to discover.

First, although, the name of the mountains needed to be answered. The cable automobile from Bad Gastein’s railway station led straight as much as Stubnerkogel at 2,246 metres. Under vivid blue skies I adopted the snowy footpath to the remark deck and did a little jig of pleasure simply to be inhaling that chilly, crisp air and gazing at this stretch of the High Tauern mountains. On the different facet of the cable automobile station, I walked alongside the 140 metre-long suspension bridge, which dangled 28 metres above the floor and provided extra panoramic views.

It was getting near that mid-morning sizzling chocolate time, and Bergstadl’s sunny terrace, a brief distance from the cable automobile’s center station, made an interesting spot to dive into thick velvety chocolate with its personal mountain of whipped cream. Was I lacking my skis? My thoughts mentioned “Yes”, however my knee made it fairly clear I wasn’t prepared but.

That left extra of the easier pleasures of the mountains to take pleasure in. In Argental a little additional north in Gastein Valley, I used to be assembly Theresa Sommerbichler for a spot of forest bathing. Not, because it sounds, a dip in the freezing Schattbach operating alongside the woods, however a gradual, contemplative stroll by means of the pines, respiratory deeply, taking in each scent and sound, ending the stroll with Theresa’s refreshing spruce tea and feeling completely relaxed. I often do some snowshoeing on a ski journey (nonetheless a knee no-no, although), so this much less strenuous woodsy stroll was a welcome substitute.

Real bathing – the wallowing-in-thermal-springs kind – awaited me in Alpentherme in Bad Hofgastein additional alongside the valley. This was undoubtedly what I signed up for – a giant advanced of indoor and out of doors thermal swimming pools, effervescent jets right here and there, chilly air making my cheeks glow whereas I gazed at the mountains. There was a comparable set-up in Bad Gastein itself at the Felsentherme thermal baths close to the railway station. Felsentherme’s brutalist structure was a bit sudden, and I didn’t discover the format of the swimming pools as handy as in Alpentherme. But no less than they’re proper in the city in case you can’t be bothered with a 20-minute bus experience to Bad Hofgastein.

If this hadn’t been greater than a flying go to, I may have tried a session in the Gastein Heilstollen, the so-called therapeutic gallery deep in an underground chamber. Its radon gases are mentioned to assist with sure illnesses, notably if in case you have three to 4 therapies over a week. I weighed up spending most of a day doing one thing that most likely would have little impact after a single therapy, or staying above floor lazily lunching and attending to know Bad Gastein. Lunch and sightseeing gained.

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Bad Gastein’s hilly streets, crammed with elaborate Belle Epoque structure – designed as a home-from-home for visiting Nineteenth-century the Aristocracy – revealed one wedding-cake confection after one other. Some, together with the Hotel de l’Europe, had been transformed into flats and vacation leases, whereas others sat empty however, curiously, not derelict, ready for a purchaser with deep sufficient pockets.

Luckily somebody got here alongside to wake the five-star Grand Hotel Straubinger from its 23-year slumber, and this immensely elegant grande dame reopened in September 2023. Its three-storey rooftop spa was as spectacular as its Straubinger Saal restaurant, the place inventive four-course dinner menus featured standout dishes together with lobster bisque and Barbary duck breast with a very moreish roasted celery cream.

Lunch, nonetheless, referred to as for full-on Austrian mountain soul meals. I used to be on the terrace at Kleine Scharte on Schlossalm, the 2,050-metre peak overlooking Bad Hofgastein, with a huge plate of splendidly gooey Käsespätzle (little dumplings smothered with melted cheese), a giant Stiegl lager and clear sunny skies. I noticed a black pet that was deliriously leaping out and in of the snow, full of the joys of winter. I may relate to that.

Travel necessities

How to get there

Salzburg is the nearest airport, which is served by Ryanair, British Airways, easyJet, Wizz Air and Jet2. Trains run from the metropolis centre to Bad Gastein.

Where to remain

Grand Hotel Straubinger is nicely positioned in the centre of Bad Gastein, overlooking each the waterfall and Straubingerplatz sq.. It has a holistic spa with a rooftop infinity pool that boasts stunning views, in addition to a vary of sauna amenities.

All resort company in Bad Gastein obtain a Gastein Card, which supplies free public transport amongst different issues, together with forest bathing.

Mary Novakovich was a visitor of Bad Gastein and SalzburgerLand.