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Sam Smith wore not one, however two outfits on the runway for Vivienne Westwood’s Paris Fashion Week present.
The Unholy singer’s twin ensembles summed up the aesthetic for inventive director Andreas Kronthaler’s new experimental assortment.
The first outfit centred round deconstructed tartan: Smith wore quick shorts and a scarf-inspired jacket, together with vertiginous platform boots and a hat – all in totally different kinds of tartan. The look was accomplished with a inexperienced jumper, argyle socks and a picket strolling stick.
Tartan has lengthy been a centre of the Vivienne Westwood model, for the reason that eponymous designer got here to prominence together with her punk, countercultural designs in the Nineteen Seventies.
Dame Vivienne died in December 2022, together with her husband, Austrian designer Kronthaler, taking full inventive management of the model.
The assortment was plagued by loads of basic Westwood references, such because the extraordinarily excessive platform sneakers that Smith and lots of the fashions wore.
In the previous, fashions have fallen over on the runway carrying these vertiginous sneakers – most famously when Naomi Campbell took a tumble in the early nineties.
Smith’s re-examination had extra of a Gothic really feel: a floor-length robe with a cut-out sample, worn with a halterneck high beneath and a funereal black hat.
And Smith wasn’t the one recognisable face on the runway. They had been additionally joined by Lila Moss, supermodel Kate’s daughter.
She wore a textured mild blue costume which appeared to have a pair of gloves and hood constructed in, in addition to a studded black bustier excessive.
Lila is constant the Moss legacy at Vivienne Westwood – in the nineties, Kate was a well-known face in the label’s catwalk reveals. One of her most notable appearances was for the spring/summer season 1994 assortment, when she walked the runway topless, carrying a tiny mini skirt and consuming an ice cream.
Both Smith and Lila Moss’ outfits felt like old-school Westwood, drawing upon historic references and giving them a punk really feel.
A mixture of influences and inspirations ran all through the gathering – from jockstraps that seemed like codpieces to dramatic tops with exaggerated shoulders that nearly resembled American soccer participant uniforms, in addition to eighties-inspired items like the big blue conical bra corset.
But there have been loads of futuristic touches too, and components just like the hooded outfits and the thick white daubs of make-up beneath fashions’ eyes felt like they wouldn’t be misplaced on the brand new Dune: Part Two movie set.
The entrance row additionally had a futuristic edge, with American actress Julia Fox wanting straight out of a sci-fi film in a glittering inexperienced corseted robe with bleached browns and gold accents.
She was joined by American influencer Emma Chamberlain, who wore a black skirt swimsuit with exaggerated shoulders and a spiky hairdo.
On first look, Kronthaler’s newest providing for Vivienne Westwood won’t appear to be a massively wearable assortment. The means the garments had been introduced collectively was considerably chaotic, with a lot of clashing patterns and supplies.
This tumultuous power was matched by the efficiency accompanying the present, the place three musicians made guttural sounds into microphones, whereas additionally taking part in devices just like the violin, dancing and stomping their ft.
But on nearer inspection, there are many items in the gathering that may very well be worn by much less experimental dressers – notably a number of the shirts, boots and baggage that went down the runway.
The garments won’t be for everybody, however you possibly can’t deny that Kronthaler is pushing the boundaries of fashion, and continues to have one of the vital distinctive and fascinating reveals on the Paris Fashion Week calendar.
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