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Royal-favourite designer Richard Quinn offered a female, romantic and floral-themed 2024 autumn/winter assortment at London Fashion Week.
The curved catwalk, that went round the huge and grade-listed 1901 Ballroom at Andaz London, was signposted by enormous bouquets of pink and white roses and puddle-length floral-themed curtains.
A dwell band, together with a string quartet and a pianist, rapidly put visitors right into a trance as the present started.
The London-based trend and print designer integrated vintage-inspired bridal put on that emphasised curves and accentuated lengthy limbs – comparable to excessive society class.
Quinn is claimed to be impressed by the late Queen Elizabeth II and different members of the royal household. She made a shock look on the entrance row of his LFW present in 2018, alongside US Vogue editor Anna Wintour, and awarded him with the first The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.
The designer additionally devoted his 2023 spring/summer time assortment to her, as a result of she touched him “among so many others with her grace and kindness”.
While each bit in the new assortment has been “designed to endure” and “realised with the future in mind”.
The present notes mentioned: “Unconcerned with hype, the clothes exist to be cherished, passed down from mother to daughter in days to come.
“From their internal structures to outer fabrications, these pieces focus on shape, volume, [and] craftmanship recognising the art of fashion design.”
For some items, fashions got here out in white and black variations – each simply as breathtaking as one another – together with an off-the-shoulder A-line midi costume that had enormous crafted roses over the bustier and lengthy sleeves. The costume had pockets in its embellished, structured backside half.
A flapper fringe jumpsuit with sheer panel detailing and a Tudor-inspired crimped collar was one other instance of this intentional repetition.
There was a basic white robe with a conventional marriage ceremony veil, and a black cross-hatch A-line midi-dress, with a deep plunge and bow waistline.
Whilst floral-themed chiffon clothes stood out in the assortment as nicely. From a high-neck black floral-themed flared jumpsuit with black dramatic feathers, to an outsized maxi costume, additionally completed with feathers.
Backstage, Terry Barber, the world inventive director of make-up artistry at MAC Cosmetics and the key artist for the present, mentioned he was impressed by the eighties, Victorian occasions, “mannequin skin” and the way some characters regarded in The Hunger movie.
Most fashions had been carrying MAC retro purple matte liquid lipstick in Feels So Grand.
“I wanted the lips to have a tight shape,” Barber defined. “We’ve not overlined or stolen [erased] the lips. We kept it quite straight, tight and structured. So they just look uber chic, like how Yves Saint Laurent models used to look back in the day.
“We haven’t done a lot of coverage on the skin. We have used a lot of powder and the MAC strobe dewy tint, with some concealer and foundation all around the face, including the eyelids and underneath, to make the eyes almost look faded away, almost quite Victorian paired with a really hard red mouth. We also used a MAC pearl tint and pearl highlighter on top.
“Though it’s just skin and a lip, it’s two elements that are very worked and perfected. The retro matte liquid lipstick is based a little bit on Russian red – that’s the red Madonna wore on the Blonde Ambition tour, it’s that blue red. It’s sharp. Feels So Grand is based on that.
“We did one coat then powdered the edge of the lips, and then put another coat on top. I didn’t want it lined up. I wanted it freehanded. Some of the models also have a net over the face, but that make-up will not budge.”
Some fashions additionally had their hair in classic French rolls, which hairstylist Sam McKnight additionally admitted was impressed by Yves Saint Laurent fashions of the late 70s and early 80s.
“They are high shine, high gloss updos, styled with Sam Mcknight products, including the Love Me Do nourishing shine oil,” mentioned McKnight, the lead hairstylist for the present.
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